Time flies when you are having fun. Or have a lot going on around you. Or…and so on. I can’t believe it is over 3 years since I published my original description of MOPs – Minifigures on Parade/ Minifigures on Patrol – back in July 2022. MOPs is a modular platform for community participation. I initially proposed an 8×16 plate, on a standardized base, including a raised ‘middle 8’ plate. Advantages of the format include the capacity to start simple, and build up, as well as the scope for storytelling within the space available.

I initally ran a group display at Brickvention in January 2023, and have followed on in following years. MOPs displays have also been opened at other local shows, with others taking on leadership roles. I have been genuinely humbled by the enthusiasm with which contributors have embraced the format, and the creativity that they have applied to bringing distinctive, imaginative builds. Along the way, it has become apparent that some design techniques will work well within the confines of an individual module, but may well provide challenges when used as part of community build.

The past few years have been somewhat of an experiment, seeing what works, trying one thing and another, and discovering that the rest of the community are for more creative builders than I am.

Today, I’d like to revisit the ‘original format, and then introduce some updates that I hope will improve the look of a community ‘parade.’

Given the brief previously provided, pretty well all modules brought in to display fit the bill. However, some modules flow a little more easily for people to look at than others, so I will add some criteria for the ‘Public Display Standard’. I’d love your input on the design. I am happy to hear tips for better module design, as well as ideas to improve the module design.

As you read through this article, all of the important aspects of constructing a MOPs module will be highlighted with a coloured background, like this one is… I shall also summarise the design at the end of the post.

Back to basics: What is a MOPs module?

Here is my earliest, simplest version of a MOPs module: you can see the basic structure easily enough.

The Spirit of a MOPS module has a minifigure ( or some minifigures) on a journey. Ideally, the miniifgure can be easily seen from the right edge of the module, with action moving from left to right (from the back to the front). The direction they are facing helps to bring a sense of unity to a collection of builds.

At its most simple, the original module is set on an 8×16 plates sandwich a layer edged with Technic bricks. The top plate constitutes ground level, while a layer of plates over the centre 8 columns of studs makes a road or pathway for our minifigures to march along.

Builds can be tiled, plated or a variety of furniture and landscapes – all are fair game, but it is important to ensure than the final layer of elements in a module lines up with the next one. This might mean you build the street layer using your textured treatment, or use an alternative treatment for the ground, filling up the hollow beneath.

The front and rear rows must be at the ‘baseline’

Lets Build up a MOPs module.

Basic Structure

We start with an 8×16 plate. as we will discuss later, it could be larger (eg 16×16). On top of this plate, we place some bricks. On the long edges (these will become front and back), ensure you have technic holes between studs 2 and 3, as well as 14 and 15. You can use full length (14 or 16 stud Technic bricks, or any number in bvetween. But the placement of these holes is important. The bricks with holes on the short edges here (the sides) should have holes to allow you to attach edging elements.

We ensure the edges are filled in for strenth, as well as to provide support for the ‘ground layer’

Half Technic pins with stud are used on the sides to attach the frame, thile the half technic pins with axle are used to line up the modules – they are attached on the back of the module, and slipe into front of the module behind.

We add the ground layer. It can be plates, tiles, or a combination, but it should be able to run smoothly with the ground of the modules in front and behind.

We add the road. Again, it can be tiles, or plates, or a combination. If going with tiles, make sure there are a couple of studs present to hold the minifigures.

Borders

Technic bricks on the side allow for connector pins with a stud to be inserted, providing an external frame. Exhibitors have opted for anything from straight up 2×8 plates to tiles, through to magnificent decoration. I love the way that Ellie S wrapped the colours of Doctor Who’s scarf around the base of her module, while Steve R used leaves and flowers beside his superheroes, and fish in the water for his Indiana Jones module.

Technic connectors with studs on the sides allow for a border. Studs are only required on the front of the module when the module is at the front end of a row, and a border is required.

Joining them all together

WE have experimented with multiple types of connectors between modules: connector pegs; half peg, half stud but I have probably had better results using the combination peg-axle connector. There is virtually zero insertion force to line modules up next to each other. For the sake of standardization, these are clicked into the rear edge of the module, and slide into the front holes of the module behind.

ALTERED: To assist modules lining up, ensure you have Technic holes between studs 2 and 3, as well as 14 and 15 on the brick layer, on the front and back of the module. A Technic pin/axle connector should be attached to the rear holes, allowing for easy alignment with the next module.

How long should a module be?

The original standard used an 8×16 module. After seeing the way that people have set things up, it becomes apparent that there is no real ‘proper length’ for a module. This can open up more space for the minifigures to move, without being overly crowded. I’ll talk about this further in the next section.

Improving your Community Display

Layout/Flow

In displays we have run, there have been between 40 and 60 modules to fit in. To ensure adequate visibility, for we aim to leave a gap of around 8-16 studs between the rows. While it might be fun to create a winding snake of a parade, this brings logistical challenges: How many corners will you need? How many have the action walking to the left? How many to the right?

Let’s make this simple: Have all modules depict action moving from Left to Right.

Modules should be designed to be viewed from the side, so that action moves from left to right.

We set the modules up in rows, parallel to the edge of the table. Typically, the displays are 90-150 cm wide. We usually fit 3-4 rows on a table, depending on the spacing.

Optionally, corner modules may be used to connect rows, However, I suggest that the ‘direction of flow’ remains left to right.

A MOPs display can function well enough without corner modules. However, if some one brings a corner or two along, the frame on the internal curve will need to be shortened, so it does not impinge on other frame elements.

Minifigure placement

Minifigures are key to a MOPs module, but it is possible to have too much of a good thing.

But it is important that the figures do not run over into adjacent modules, or push right up to the edge.. It can be very easy to get close to doing this. It is also possible to crowd figures a little too close together, so that one module obscures what is going on in the next.

To stop figures from overcrowding the next module, we are adding a ‘no figure zone’ in the front and rear 2 rows of a module.

Minifigures should not occupy the two rows front and real of the module.

Sometimes, figures might be overly crowded in. Look at these two versions of the yellow brick road. The 8×16 module holds the figures, but the flowers are starting to leak over the edge, towards the next module. With the 16×16, the characters are spaced out, and can all be seen from a child’s eye vantage point.

If your figures cannot fit clearly within the centrrows of the module, make it longer.

Scenery Placement

Despite my carefully designed minimalist modules for demonstration purposes, scenery creates your story. Will it be a desert, an alien planet, a pinball parlor or the mean streets of Heartlake City? It is important that scenery should not obscure your minifigure’s actions. Also, it should not run too close to the adjacent modules.

Ground cover should be tapering along the two rows of studs front and rear. Over these rows, scenery should be restricted two one brick height from baseline, tapering in the front and rear rows.

Compare the way that the scenery engages with the edges of the module, and therefore the adjacent modules. There are reasons that I have never displayed my smaller yellow brick road as part of a community MOPs build.

Larger modules give you scope to incorporate more minifigures, as well as other animals, bigfigs, even modes of transport.

Solid scenery features (walls, tree trunks, canyons, mountain sides etc should not extend into the last row of studs close to the edges of your module, while the canopy from any trees or roof eaves should not extend over the final row of studs.

Tree Branches and eaves of buildings should not be any closer to the front and rear ends than the second last stud. Modules with taller scenery should be positioned towards the rear of the display..

The front and rear rows of each section of a display should return to the baseline levels, for both the road and scenery, so that there is no perceptible step between modules.

Ideally, don’t allow the scenery to completely obscure your minifigure..

What if I have made an absolutely brilliant module, but it is still too crowded, or the threat of overhang?

I have this problem with one of the first modules I build while testing MOPs for myself. I really like this little module I built a few years ago for a single module challenge. Unfortunately, the small s ship attempts to overhang the 8 stud deep module. Let’s fix that by adding some simple extenders to the module, making it measure 12×16, rather than 8×16.:

It is also possible to inset a small ‘spacer module’ if there is too much action towards the fron and read of adjacent modules (thanks for Stefan F for this idea).

What have we seen?

We gave the format was initially given a run as an Instagram challenge, and there were some remarkable creations when @Brickfambuilds and I ran a ‘classic themes’ challenge back in 2022. Since then, the format has been used for community builds at a few of our local Fan events, including three iterations of Brickvention, Australia’s AFOL Networking Event.

I love the little twist that many builders bring to the modules. One this that I found interesting was the number of builders who opted to build extended modules, to facilitate their story telling.

Just as crowding the module with minifigures can make it difficult to clarify the distinction between the modules, likewise scenery towards the ends – be it walls, tables trees – particularly if they overhanging the ends of the module.

Roads don’t need to be perfectly straight

There is no obligation to keep the road straight, BUT it must return to the centre 8 studs to join up with the road on the next module.

Not just minifigures….

The LEGO Group have produced many different types of figures over the years: minifigures, minidolls, Galidor, Technic, Fabuland, Homemaker figs, Big Figs, Belville and more. We have seen most of these incorporated into MOPs displays, always intriguing, sometimes disturbing.

While my first, relatively simple specification can work very well an individual model, it is essential to provide adequate space between the action, if modules are to be jointed together for public display. Today, I am extending the standard to include some alterations and additions to allow modules to be displayed together, to truly allow our Minifigures to be On Parade.

Corners (Optional)

WE have had members of the community contribute corner plates to allow the path to turn a corner. I have previously mentioned the issues with ensuring modules move from left to right: so many modules end up with a front and a back, you need to be able to have them all facing the correct way.

New: Corner modules can form a right angle. Adjacent modules might need to reduce the length of the inside border.

Building a MOPs module [A summary!]

Structure

• The module is 16 studs wide, and multiples of 8 studs deep.
• The module consists of a plate [Layer 1]; Bricks filling layers 2-3; Ground at layer 4, the road on layer 5.
• Technic bricks should be used to ensure there are holes at the front and back between studs 2 and 3 as well as 14 and 15. Technic connectors with axle are placed in these holes at the rear to allow lining up with the modules behind it.
• Technic pins with studs are used on the sides to attach a border. These may also be used at the front, of there are no modules in front of it.

Design considerations

The central principle is to help the rows look appropriately spaced out, without impinging on the next module.

• Action/walking should flow from left to right, which the modules are are viewed from the side.
• Minifigures should avoid the the front 2 or rear 2 rows of studs. If you cannot fit the action into this space, extend the length of your module. Consider this a ‘no mans land’
• Scenery in the first and last rows should be tapering towards ground level, and be distinguishable from the ‘ground level’.
• Extensions from scenery at higher levels – for example leaves of trees – should not extend past the second/second last row of studs.

In Closing

This post has reviewed the basic structure of the MOPs modules, and introduced some additional rules to use for a community build, to ensure adjacent modules don’t blur into each other.

Thanks for taking the time to read through this. I hope you feel inspired to give it a try, and build a module or two. Experiment with how they interact.

I’m a 70’s-80s kid. I’m still coming to terms with SNOT bricks and curved slopes. As such, my personal MOPs tend to be a little simplistic and covered in studs.

I hope to be organising a community build for Brickvention 2025 (organisers permitting), but there might be a collaborative parade coming to an event near you soon.

Which minifigures would you incorporate into a MOPS? how big would you build it? And would you tie it in to another MOC you have on display at an event?

Leave your comments, thoughts and questions below. If you build a module and post it on your socials, please tag me. @ramblingbrick

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Until Next Time,

Play Well!